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Inside Up All Night Bakery - a name suggested by Highfield’s wife as he balanced working at Wegmans, teaching at Reynolds and running the bakery - the dough cover and dedicated production kitchen are dotted with owl figurines and a quirky painting of the nocturnal bird that he bought from RVA Antiques.įor now, the venture is mostly a one-person operation, operating two days a week but with plans for expanded hours. “I started at his original space and ended up here.”
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Sub rosa bakery full#
“ responded, ‘It’s full circle,’ ” Highfield recalls. In 2020, when the owner of Pulp Fiction shared that she would be shutting down the storefront, Highfield saw an opportunity.Īfter officially acquiring the building, he texted a photo of the future bakery to Laxton with a message that read, “I’m finally getting my own place,” not knowing that the space had once housed an outpost of Early Bird Biscuit Co. For a year and a half prior to opening a brick-and-mortar space, Highfield would use the kitchen at Laxton’s Bellevue location to prep for the Dorey Park Farmers Market, gaining a few wholesale accounts along the way including Sefton Coffee Co., Jiji Frozen Custard and the now shuttered Pulp Fiction, which once operated in the same Lakeside Avenue space. And once again he was approached to teach, this time by the culinary school at Reynolds community college.ĭuring that time a neighbor introduced him to Early Bird Biscuit Co. He also landed at the Notter School of Pastry Arts in Florida, teaching classes on pastries and sanitation, and was later recruited to open ECPI University’s culinary program at its Norfolk campus as one of five founding members.Īfter moving to Richmond with his wife, Highfield joined Wegmans, heading the bakery department and doubling as a company trainer. The student would later become the teacher, eventually returning to New England Culinary Institute to teach at its Montpelier, Vermont, and British Virgin Islands campuses. “I ended up working with an amazing baker who totally flipped my mind about bread, and I was sold. “In the late ’90s school didn’t really teach us that,” he says. His early resume includes a stint at a Asticou Inn in Bar Harbor, Maine, followed by work at a yoga retreat center called Omega, where he was introduced to sourdough starters, long fermentation techniques and more highly hydrated dough “long before it was cool,” says Highfield, 42. That shift led Highfield on an educational journey that helped him hone a craft he would later share with the wider community. I did ceramics all through high school, and when we got to doing breads and things like that, it clicked.” Located at 5411 Lakeside Ave., the successful farmers market venture turned walk-up window bakery that debuted last weekend is the product of a nearly lifelong adoration of dough.Įntering culinary school right out of high school, the Lancaster, Pennsylvania, native says, “They didn’t even have baking I thought I wanted to be a chef. So small, in fact, that the veteran pastry chef met Sub Rosa Bakery owners Evin and Evrim Dogu years ago while opening Chelsea Bake House in Norfolk, both teams acquiring wood-fired ovens from the same maker.īut the small world of baking took on a whole new meaning when he opened Up All Night Bakery. “It’s a very small industry,” baker Jonathan Highfield says as he whizzes around the kitchen of his 450-square-foot space in Lakeside.